So it's being a while since I travelled to Luxor for some well overdue exploring and it's about high time I told the world about my experiences...Considering I've just returned from Cairo the two cities could not be any more different to one another if they tried!
We had an early start of 4.45am to catch the bus from our hotel in Hurghada. We were well aware it was going to be a hefty journey (4 1/2 hours each way) but we were psyched as this was the first tour back out to Luxor since the 2013 revolution. We simply had to be on it! Saying that there were only 10 of us on the bus but it made for swifter exploration.
To get to Luxor you drive through the Red Sea Mountains and down into the Nile Delta, around 4 hours of desert followed by 1/2 an hour of lush green landscapes that could be mistaken for somewhere closer to home! We arrived at our first stop Karnak Temple at around 10am. Driving through Luxor I was struck at how basic the people live and how it reminded me of my town back home, effectively a small farming community (albeit with an international airport on the outskirts!). We passed by a funeral procession and the streets were lined with mourners paying their respects, which was very humbling to see.
Karnak Temple was everything it promised to be. A huge series of temples and ancient structures that you meander your way through and could probably spend a good day there. We had around an hour to squeeze what we could in. Be prepared to make some space on your camera as there are lots of things you will want to capture! Me and my colleague were coaxed behind some barriers by an old security guard to see some statues, not entirely sure what they were but that move cost us a few bob so be warned!
The hassle we got at the bus park and leading up to the temple was nothing short of overwhelming, thankfully having lived in Egypt for a while we know how to deal with these people, who are, effectively, nothing short of beggars. I did honestly feel bad for these people who's livelihood has simply disintegrated before their very eyes...Luxor once upon a time used to be a tourist hotspot, unfortunately it will take many years for it to get back to it's glory days and these people are feeling it. They were practically giving things away, but I didn't want to get stuck so I carried on walking.
Our second stop was lunch on the Nile followed by a boat crossing. It was a nice enough day for it, but marred by the fact that all you could see really were dis-used cruise boats moored up 5-a-piece on either side of the river banks. Again, the hassle getting off the boat at the other side was horrendous (your patience begins to wear thin now!). To me, the Nile was slightly dissapointing, murky waters and not half as spectacular as one would have imagined it to be. Still, our next stop promised to be an unforgettable experience: The Valley Of The Kings.
Tut's not down there so there is very little point in paying the extra tenner to see his tomb. Especially now Ramses is open for the public to see. You are allowed to visit 3 tombs during your visit to the Valley (be warned it is very hot and dry up here so take a head scarf or hat!). We were very spoilt as we were the only bus there at the time of visiting, which meant that you practically had a tomb to yourself to explore. Back in Luxor's glory days, 1000's of people would be visiting the site per day. My gran had even warned me that because of my claustrophobic tendancies, I might not enjoy it...I definitely think there was enough space with just me pottering around!
On our way to our final stop of the day we paid a visit to an alabastor factory just on the outskirts of Luxor. I did originally roll my eyes at this idea thinking it was a sure fire way for the rep's commission but I was pleasantly suprised to find myself purchasing twenty quid's worth of the stuff. Sure enough a month later it came crashing down into a million pieces on my kitchen floor but hey ho! I'd definitely reccomend having a gander, it's fascinating to watch these guys manipulate the material into the shapes and ornaments.
Our final stop was Hatshepsut's temple. By this time, I think the whole tour was flaking and we were about to be greeted by what can only be described as 'Running The Gauntlet' (see video!). Hassle, hassle and more hassle (when will these people learn this is not the way forward!). After running through the bazaar you then have a gazillion steps to climb to the temple. I found myself a bit 'templed out' by this point along with the rest of the group. I found the area to give me an uneasy feeling considering it's the place where militants massacred so many tourists a few years back. We were all back on the coach within half an hour, not to the guide's suprise who did an 'I told you so' look at everyone. It was 4.30pm. It was time for the long drive home.
We arrived back at our resort around 9pm in the evening, absolutely shattered but inspired by the day we'd spent discovering Egypt's ancient history. I'm not a huge ruins and temple's lover, but it was definitely a destination on the to do list and one that I would reccomend everyone who visits Hurghada or Marsa Alam to do. Not sure I'd spent a full holiday there but a day/overnight trip is fine.
Most large tour operators run day and overnight trips to the resort. We did ours with Thomson Holidays from the Red Sea resort of Hurghada. There are direct flights from Cairo and international from London Gatwick.
Running The Gauntlet- Hatshepsut's Temple





